Matières Fécales Spring ‘27
Designers Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran want Matières Fécales to be fashion’s “most extreme brand,” as put by W Magazine. This is apparent in the garments they produce and the production of each show they hold. The influence of Lee Alexander McQueen is prevalent in their work, which is reminiscent of collections like “Its a Jungle Out There” in 1997 made to mock the elitist attitudes in the fashion industry. Although, I do think that we, as the ones who are consuming this content, are much more equipped to process the message behind it compared to when McQueen debuted his work.
While some looks are visually definitive, like the dress with wording “Resist” on the front or the sari-inspired drapes blended with traditional European styles, some looks are less direct in their message. With his South Asian heritage, Bhaskaran implemented his experience struggling with his cultural identity as a young man, whilst also living in a melting pot of cultures. The distinguished components of South Asian silhouettes and artistry in this collection pose as a representation of pride, and the traditional symbols and markers are now associated with freedom. Both Dalton and Bhaskaran grew up with economic struggles and shame stemming from being “different.” The finale of this collection truly gets to the point of the show, when the model is seen walking out with billionaire tycoons carried on her shoulders; blinded by money.
These designs excite me, not simply due to their strong and cohesive presence, but because they prove that the fashion industry will remain a figure of change, expression, and revolution. Though these clothes are high end and not particularly accessible, they can serve as meaningful pieces of art that blend cultural heritages, the East with the West, and various economic backgrounds. The social and political commentary is exactly what brands with visibility should be creating, which can still be done in a “fashionable” sense.
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